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The first thing you need to do is to take a look at the surf and determine where the best place to paddle out is located for that particular beach. If you place a surfboard on the surface of the ocean (or any body of water large enough for the surfboard to float freely) you will probably notice that the board lies flat the exact same way every time. That is due to the board’s fundamental buoyancy. It is important that you take advantage of this fact when you try to paddle a surfboard. Because, to be an efficient paddler you must keep the board floating flat and stabile while smoothly taking alternate strokes with each arm.
The idea is to pull as much water, as possible down the length of the surfboard, with each stroke by cupping the hand slightly and dragging it, elbow deep, down the length of the rail. Make sure that you do not roll your torso as you do this. That would cause the board to rock from side to side making the board less stable and efficient. To do this takes time, so be patient. Try to use your awareness of body’s points of contact with the surfboard (i.e. chest, ribs, knees, etc.) to maintain stability keeping the board in its most efficient state. When your arm completes the backwards stroke the arm comes completely out of the water and forward to repeat the sequence in sync with the alternating stroke of the other arm.
A great way to practice your paddling stroke is to do it in a pool or another calm body of water. That way you can improve you technique without having to worry about waves crashing into you. Once your paddling becomes efficient enough to pick up a bit of momentum, then it’s time to paddle through the surf zone.
To do this, paddle towards the waves heading the nose of the board directly into the brunt of the oncoming waves power. The surfboard is streamlined from nose to tail making efficient moving forward, not sideway. If the board is even slightly sideways it will be spun around by the wave making it more difficult to control.
Keep your momentum up until the wave is bearing down on you, about five feet directly in front of you. Now, stop paddling and grab onto the rail of the board at your ribs. Extend your arms. Arch and lean back while focusing your weight into your legs and feet pressing into the tail of the surfboard. This will cause the tail of the board to sink, lifting the nose, as the wave and board meet, allowing the force of the wave to pass under the board.
This is the most common way to paddle a big board through the surf. If you have progressed to a shortboard then you will use a technique to get under the energy of wave, called duck diving. This is achieved only because the smaller board can be submerged unlike the longboard, which is usually too buoyant.
Top (10) most important things remember for proper paddling technique:
• Keep your bodyweight centered along the stringer
• Use all points of contact with the board to maintain balance (i.e. feet, chest, etc.)
• Close your fingers and make a cup with your hand
• Use an alternating paddling stroke
• Arch your upper back
• Do not hesitate when paddling to catch a wave
• Paddle with as smooth a rhythm as possible
• Pull as much water as possible behind you with each stroke
• Do not rotate your body when paddling
• Relax and stay calm… Breathe and don’t struggle so much Remember, if you are struggling and too exhausted to continue surfing safely, you can always turn your surfboard towards shore and ride the waves back to the beach.
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